Surabaya holds the position of Indonesia's second-largest city by population, with approximately 2.9 million residents within city limits and over 10 million in the metropolitan area as of 2023. The city occupies the northeastern corner of Java island, sitting at the mouth of the Mas River where it meets the Madura Strait. This location has determined Surabaya's identity as Indonesia's principal naval base and the country's second-largest commercial port after Jakarta's Tanjung Priok. The city covers approximately 350 square kilometers and sits at elevations ranging from sea level to about 25 meters above. Surabaya experiences a tropical wet and dry climate with daytime temperatures typically ranging from 28 to 35 degrees Celsius year-round, with the wet season extending from November through April and the dry season from May through October.
The name Surabaya derives from two Javanese words: "sura" meaning shark and "baya" meaning crocodile. Local legend describes a battle between these two creatures, though historians note the name appears in Javanese texts dating to the 14th century Majapahit period. The city existed as a trading settlement by 1225 CE when it appeared in Chinese records. Under Majapahit rule from 1293 to the early 1500s, Surabaya functioned as a significant port in the maritime trading networks connecting Java to China, India, and the Maluku Islands. The Sultanate of Demak conquered the area around 1530, followed by the Mataram Sultanate in 1625. The Dutch East India Company established control in 1743, though local resistance continued for decades. On November 10, 1945, the Battle of Surabaya began when British and British-Indian forces attempted to occupy the city after Japanese surrender, confronting Indonesian republican forces in what became the largest single battle of the Indonesian National Revolution. The battle lasted three weeks, resulted in thousands of deaths, and November 10 remains commemorated as Indonesia's National Heroes Day. The Tugu Pahlawan monument, completed in 1952, stands 41.15 meters tall in central Surabaya marking this event, with the height representing the date of Indonesia's independence proclamation on August 17, 1945 (written 17-8-1945 in Indonesian format).
Surabaya's economy generates approximately 19 percent of East Java province's GDP. The city hosts Indonesia's largest shipyard, PT PAL Indonesia, which has operated since 1939 and builds naval vessels, commercial ships, and offshore platforms. The Tanjung Perak port handles over 20 million twenty-foot equivalent units annually, ranking among the top five container ports in Southeast Asia. Major industries include food processing, electronics manufacturing, cigarette production, shipbuilding, and petrochemical refining. The Surabaya Industrial Estate Rungkut covers 630 hectares and houses over 400 manufacturing facilities. Traditional retail centers on the Pasar Atom and Pasar Turi markets, while modern retail concentrates in the Pakuwon Mall, which opened in 2016 as one of Southeast Asia's largest shopping centers at 650,000 square meters of floor space. The Surabaya Stock Exchange operated from 1989 until merging with Jakarta's exchange in 2007. Average monthly wages in manufacturing sectors range from 3 to 5 million rupiah as of 2023.
The city divides into 31 kecamatan (districts) and 154 kelurahan (urban villages). The northern districts along the coast historically housed Chinese and Arab trading communities, with Kya Kya and Ampel remaining centers of Chinese and Arab Indonesian culture respectively. The Ampel Mosque, constructed in the 15th century by Sunan Ampel, one of Java's nine Islamic saints (Wali Songo), draws pilgrims daily. Central Surabaya contains colonial-era commercial buildings along Jalan Tunjungan, the city's primary shopping street since the 1800s. Southern districts consist primarily of residential neighborhoods extending toward the slopes of Mount Arjuno. Western areas near the port accommodate industrial zones and working-class housing. Eastern Surabaya has developed since the 1990s as a middle and upper-class residential area with universities, hospitals, and shopping centers.
Juanda International Airport, located 15 kilometers south of central Surabaya in Sidoarjo Regency, handled approximately 25 million passengers in 2019 before pandemic reductions. The airport serves as a hub for Citilink, Garuda Indonesia's low-cost subsidiary. Direct international flights connect to Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Penang, and select Middle Eastern cities. Domestic routes reach all major Indonesian cities. Transport from the airport to central Surabaya operates via taxi (approximately 100,000 to 150,000 rupiah), ride-hailing applications, or airport bus services to predetermined points. The Surabaya Gubeng railway station, opened in 1878 and reconstructed in 1992, serves as the primary station for long-distance trains. Argo-class executive trains to Jakarta cover the approximately 730 kilometers in 8 to 9 hours, with departures multiple times daily and fares ranging from 200,000 to 350,000 rupiah depending on class. The Surabaya Pasar Turi station, dating to 1878, handles trains to destinations in Central and West Java.
Within the city, public transport relies primarily on angkot (shared minivans following fixed routes) charging approximately 5,000 rupiah per journey, city buses operated by various companies with fares from 3,500 to 7,000 rupiah, and Suroboyo Bus, a bus rapid transit system introduced in 2018 that accepts plastic bottles as payment at a rate of approximately five bottles per journey, processing over 7.5 tons of plastic monthly through this system. Traditional becak (pedicabs) operate in older neighborhoods, particularly around markets and residential areas. Ride-hailing applications function throughout the city with motorcycle taxis commonly used for avoiding traffic congestion. The city administration has discussed light rail and subway systems since the 1990s, though no rail-based mass transit operates as of 2024. Traffic congestion concentrates on primary corridors during morning hours from 6:30 to 9:00 and evening hours from 16:00 to 19:00, particularly on Jalan Ahmad Yani connecting the airport to the city center.
The House of Sampoerna occupies a Dutch colonial compound built in 1862, which Liem Seeng Tee purchased in 1932 to establish the Sampoerna kretek cigarette company. The facility operated as a cigarette factory until 1978 and now functions as a museum displaying cigarette production history, Javanese architecture, and family artifacts. Entry costs 20,000 rupiah. Guided tours operate daily except Sundays from 9:00 to 17:00. The compound includes a cafe and small retail area selling Sampoerna merchandise. The museum sits in the old city area where several other colonial buildings remain, though most serve commercial rather than cultural functions.
Monkasel (Monumen Kapal Selam) displays the KRI Pasopati 410, a Whiskey-class submarine built in the Soviet Union in 1952 and operated by the Indonesian Navy from 1962 to 1990. The submarine sits on land at Jalan Pemuda, preserved as a museum ship visitors can enter to view crew quarters, control rooms, and torpedo bays. Entry costs 15,000 rupiah for adults and 10,000 rupiah for children. The monument opened in 1998 and attracts primarily domestic visitors and school groups. The interior retains original equipment including periscopes, navigation instruments, and communications systems, with Indonesian-language signage explaining submarine operations.
Surabaya Zoo (Kebun Binatang Surabaya) opened in 1916, making it Indonesia's oldest zoo. The facility covers 15 hectares and houses approximately 2,800 animals representing over 350 species. The zoo has faced significant criticism and international attention regarding animal welfare, with investigations between 2010 and 2014 documenting deaths of hundreds of animals including a giraffe found with 20 kilograms of plastic in its stomach in 2012. Management transferred from private operators to the Surabaya city government in 2016. Entry costs 15,000 rupiah on weekdays and 20,000 rupiah on weekends. The facility operates from 8:00 to 16:00 daily. Visitors report variable conditions, with some enclosures meeting modern standards while others show infrastructure deterioration.
Masjid Al-Akbar Surabaya, completed in 2000, rises 99 meters across its main dome and includes a 140-meter minaret. The mosque accommodates approximately 25,000 worshippers across multiple prayer halls. The minaret contains an elevator to an observation deck at 99 meters offering views across Surabaya, though access depends on weather conditions and may close during prayer times. The mosque complex includes a shopping center, library, and Islamic museum. Non-Muslim visitors may enter outside prayer times with modest dress required, meaning covered shoulders and knees at minimum, with women typically provided headscarves if not carrying them. No entry fee applies, though donations are accepted.
Tugu Pahlawan stands 41.15 meters tall, constructed of reinforced concrete in a shape resembling a traditional Javanese keris dagger or a stylized flame. The monument sits in a plaza in central Surabaya with the November 10 Museum located underneath. The museum displays dioramas, artifacts, photographs, and documents from the 1945 battle, including weapons, uniforms, medical equipment, and personal items from participants on both sides. Entry to the museum costs 5,000 rupiah. The museum operates Tuesday through Sunday from 8:00 to 15:00, closed Mondays. The monument area attracts local families particularly on weekends and holidays, with food vendors and informal markets setting up around the perimeter.
Taman Bungkul, a 9-hectare public park in central Surabaya, received the 2013 Asian Townscape Award from UN-Habitat for urban park design. The park includes walking paths, children's play areas, outdoor exercise equipment, a skate park, and a performance stage. Food vendors operate along the park's edges, particularly during evenings when local residents gather. The park contains the tomb of Sunan Bungkul, a Muslim missionary from the Wali Songo period. Free WiFi coverage exists throughout the park, provided by the city government. The park operates 24 hours without entry fees, though evening hours see the highest activity levels.
The Submarine Monument (different from Monkasel) sits along Jalan Pemuda near the Suramadu Bridge approach, consisting of a monument complex rather than an actual submarine. This area sees heavy traffic and serves primarily as a landmark and photo location rather than a museum facility.
Suramadu Bridge connects Surabaya to Madura Island across the Madura Strait, spanning 5.4 kilometers with a main cable-stayed section of 818 meters. Construction began in 2003 and completed in 2009, making it Indonesia's longest bridge. The bridge carries two lanes of traffic in each direction with toll fees of approximately 30,000 rupiah for cars. The bridge reduced travel time to Madura from over an hour via ferry to approximately 30 minutes. The structure stands as an engineering landmark rather than a tourist destination, though viewpoints exist on both the Surabaya and Madura approaches.
Ciputra Waterpark opened in 2009 within the Ciputra World Surabaya complex, covering 5 hectares with multiple pools, water slides, and a lazy river. The facility operates daily from 9:00 to 18:00 with entry fees ranging from 100,000 to 150,000 rupiah depending on weekday versus weekend visits. The waterpark sits in western Surabaya and attracts primarily middle-class Indonesian families. Food outlets inside charge prices approximately 50 to 100 percent above street rates.
The Surabaya Heritage Track offers self-guided walking routes through the old city area, marked with ground plaques and information boards in Indonesian and English. The track covers approximately 3 kilometers connecting colonial buildings including the Internatio Building (1910), Javasche Bank (1830s), De Javasche Bank (1829), Hotel Majapahit (1910, originally Hotel Yamato), and the Post Office (1929). Most buildings continue to serve commercial or government functions with limited public access to interiors. The walk takes approximately 2 hours at a moderate pace. The area experiences heat exceeding 30 degrees Celsius during midday, making early morning or late afternoon preferable.
Surabaya's culinary identity emphasizes bold, assertive flavors distinct from the sweeter profiles common in Central Java. Rawon, a black beef soup colored with keluak nuts, originated in East Java with Surabaya claiming the most prominent version. The dish consists of slow-cooked beef in a spiced broth served with rice, bean sprouts, salted duck eggs, and shrimp crackers. Warung-warung (small restaurants) across the city serve rawon from early morning, with portions costing 15,000 to 30,000 rupiah. Rawon Setan on Jalan Embong Malang operates only from midnight to approximately 7:00, serving customers throughout the night. The name "setan" (devil) derives from the late hours rather than spice level.
Rujak cingur combines sliced vegetables, tofu, tempeh, cucumber, pineapple, and cingur (cow's snout cartilage) with a sauce made from petis (fermented shrimp paste), peanuts, chilies, and palm sugar. The dish presents a mixture of textures and flavors characteristic of East Javanese cuisine. Cingur requires extended cooking to tenderize, contributing a distinctive gelatinous texture. Rujak cingur vendors operate near markets and in designated food areas, charging 10,000 to 20,000 rupiah per serving.
Lontong balap contains lontong (compressed rice cakes), bean sprouts, fried tofu, lentho (fried cassava and peanut patties), fried shallots, and koya (a powder made from fried soybeans and shrimp crackers) in a savory sauce. Despite the name "balap" (race), no racing connection exists in the dish's history. The name likely derives from the Balapan area of Surabaya where vendors historically concentrated. Lontong balap appears primarily as breakfast food, sold from approximately 6:00 to 11:00, costing 10,000 to 15,000 rupiah.
Semanggi Surabaya uses a clover-like plant (Marsilea crenata) blanched and served with sauce similar to that used in rujak cingur, including petis, peanuts, and palm sugar. The plant grows in wet rice paddies and requires careful cleaning before cooking. Semanggi vendors operate primarily in the late afternoon and evening in specific locations including the Kayoon area, where the dish has sold for decades. Portions cost approximately 8,000 to 15,000 rupiah.
Tahu tek consists of fried tofu, boiled potatoes, bean sprouts, and fried egg in a peanut sauce, topped with krupuk (crackers) and fried shallots. The dish represents Chinese Indonesian culinary influence. "Tek" derives from the sound of cutting the ingredients with a cleaver against a wooden board during preparation. Tahu tek vendors operate throughout the day in various neighborhoods, charging 12,000 to 20,000 rupiah per serving.
Soto Lamongan, despite the name referencing Lamongan Regency north of Surabaya, has become synonymous with Surabaya's street food culture. The soup contains shredded chicken, glass noodles, bean sprouts, boiled egg, and koya powder in a light, clear broth flavored with lime and sambal. Soto vendors operate from early morning through afternoon, with the Cak Har Soto Lamongan on Jalan Kalibokor operating since the 1950s. Prices range from 15,000 to 25,000 rupiah.
Nasi Bebek Sinjay specializes in braised duck served with rice, the duck cooked in sweet soy sauce, spices, and coconut water until tender. The restaurant operates multiple locations across Surabaya, with the original on Jalan Raya Kalirungkut opening in 1979. A duck and rice meal costs approximately 35,000 to 50,000 rupiah. The restaurant seats families rather than individual diners and sees peak activity during lunch and dinner hours.
Pasar Atom Baru, rebuilt in 2016 after fire destroyed the original 1972 structure, functions as Surabaya's primary electronics and textile market. The multi-story complex houses hundreds of stalls selling fabric, clothing, electronics components, and household goods. The market opens daily from approximately 9:00 to 18:00, though individual stall hours vary. Bargaining remains standard practice, with sellers typically starting 30 to 50 percent above the price they will accept. The market sees significant crowding on weekends.