Iran enforces mandatory hijab for all women regardless of nationality. The law requires covering hair with a headscarf and wearing loose-fitting clothing that conceals body shape from wrists to ankles. Enforcement shifted after the death of Mahsa Amini in September 2022, with observable variation between Tehran's wealthier districts and conservative cities like Qom or Mashhad. Police checkpoints still operate, particularly near government buildings and religious sites. The Guidance Patrol (Gasht-e Ershad) conducts sporadic checks. Women have been detained for insufficient coverage, with consequences ranging from warnings to fines of approximately 500,000 to 5,000,000 rials depending on location and circumstance.
Public transportation in Tehran operates gender-segregated sections on buses and metro cars, though enforcement varies by line and time of day. Women sit at the back of intercity buses. Shared taxis accommodate mixed genders but some drivers refuse single women passengers after dark. Hotels require proof of marriage for mixed-gender bookings, enforced through passport review at check-in. Unmarried couples booking accommodation risk police involvement. Solo women travelers attract attention in smaller cities but Tehran, Isfahan, and Shiraz see enough foreign visitors that questions remain minimal.
Restaurants and cafes in major cities serve mixed groups without issue. Traditional teahouses in cities like Yazd or Kerman operate as male spaces, though enforcement depends on ownership. The Imam Reza Shrine in Mashhad maintains separate entrances and prayer areas for women. Shah Abdol Azim Shrine and Fatima Masumeh Shrine in Qom require full chador, available for loan at entrances. Women enter mosques through designated doors and occupy screened sections. Some historical sites including sections of Golestan Palace designate women-only visiting hours on specific weekdays.
Hamams (traditional bathhouses) operate gender-segregated schedules, typically women's hours from morning until early afternoon. Hormuz Island and Kish Island permit beach access for women in full Islamic swimwear within designated family zones. Photography of women without explicit permission constitutes a legal offense. Iranian women have initiated conversation with foreign women more readily than men approach foreign women, particularly in Tehran and university cities. Physical contact between unmarried men and women in public attracts police attention.
Iranian law criminalizes same-sex sexual conduct under Articles 233-240 of the Islamic Penal Code adopted in 2013. Penalties range from flogging to execution depending on act and evidence standard. The law applies to citizens and foreign nationals. Iran executed at least six individuals on charges related to homosexual conduct between 2019 and 2023 according to documentation by Iran Human Rights and the Abdorrahman Boroumand Center. The government does not publish comprehensive statistics on prosecutions.
Public displays of affection between same-sex individuals trigger arrest risk. Holding hands, embracing, or other physical contact outside family context violates public morality laws enforced by police and Basij volunteer forces. Hotels conduct document checks that flag same-gender pairs sharing rooms. Staff report suspicious bookings to authorities in conservative cities. Tehran shows marginally higher tolerance in northern districts like Elahieh or Zafaraniyeh, but no legal protection exists.
Iran recognizes and subsidizes gender reassignment surgery under fatwas issued by Ayatollah Khomeini in 1987. The state conflates homosexuality with gender dysphoria, pressuring gay and lesbian citizens toward transition rather than acknowledging sexual orientation as distinct from gender identity. This policy does not extend to foreign visitors. The Framework for Prohibition of the Promotion of Homosexuality, proposed in 2023, would criminalize any perceived advocacy including symbolic clothing or accessories.
Online activity faces surveillance. The Cyber Police (FATA) monitors social media, dating apps, and messaging platforms. VPN use is common but illegal under the Computer Crimes Law of 2009. Grindr, Scruff, and similar applications are blocked and accessing them through circumvention tools has resulted in arrests documented by Human Rights Watch in 2017 and 2021. Travel forums contain reports of interrogation at Imam Khomeini International Airport regarding phone content, though systematic screening remains inconsistent.
No LGBTQ+ organizations operate legally within Iran. The government classifies such groups as threats to national security. Foreign embassies do not provide refuge to LGBTQ+ individuals facing charges, as Iranian law does not recognize asylum claims based on sexual orientation. Canada, the United Kingdom, and several European countries have issued travel warnings specifically noting risks for LGBTQ+ travelers. The US Department of State rates Iran as Level 4 Do Not Travel partly due to arbitrary detention risks.
Iran ratified the UN Convention on the Rights of Persons with Disabilities in 2009 but infrastructure remains largely inaccessible. Tehran Metro operates elevators at major stations including Azadi, Imam Khomeini, and Tajrish, though mechanical failures keep many non-operational for extended periods. The accessible entrance at Imam Khomeini Station records functional elevator service approximately 60 percent of observation days according to informal user reports from 2023. Lines 1 and 3 provide the most consistent accessibility. Buses lack wheelchair lifts except on designated accessible routes that run limited schedules.
Sidewalks throughout Iranian cities feature irregular paving, missing sections, and obstacles. Tehran municipality installed textured tiles for vision-impaired navigation in central districts beginning 2015, but implementation remains incomplete. Persepolis requires ascending uneven stone stairs without ramps or lift alternatives. The Naqsh-e Jahan Square in Isfahan provides ground-level access to the square itself but mosques surrounding it involve staircases. Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque has 12 steps at entrance. Imam Mosque entrance involves 15 steps. Golestan Palace complex added ramps to three pavilions in 2018 but others remain stair-only access.
Hotels in Tehran marketed as four or five-star typically feature one or two accessible rooms with roll-in showers and grab bars. The Espinas Palace Hotel, Parsian Azadi Hotel, and Laleh International Hotel maintain accessible accommodations. Confirmation by phone before booking prevents arrival complications, as online reservation systems do not reliably indicate room modifications. Hotels in Isfahan and Shiraz offer fewer adapted options. Yazd's historic district hotels occupy traditional houses built around courtyards with unavoidable steps.
International airports in Tehran, Mashhad, Isfahan, and Shiraz provide wheelchair assistance through airline coordination. Imam Khomeini International Airport operates accessible restrooms in all terminals and maintains covered ramps between levels. Domestic airports vary significantly. Kerman Airport lacks functional elevators as of 2024. Tabriz Airport completed accessibility renovations in 2022 including ramps and adapted facilities.
Taxis do not accommodate wheelchairs. Private van rental with driver through tour agencies represents the primary option for travelers requiring vehicle accessibility. Iran Accessible Travel based in Tehran specializes in adapted itineraries and vehicle rental, quoting approximately 80-120 euros per day for accessible van with driver in 2024. Visa restrictions and banking sanctions complicate advance payment, requiring cash settlement or alternative arrangements through third countries.
Sign language interpretation services exist primarily in Tehran through the Deaf Society of Iran, but availability for tourists remains minimal. Restaurants and shops do not systematically train staff in accommodation practices. Museums including the National Museum of Iran and the Carpet Museum provide limited English text but no audio guides or tactile elements for vision-impaired visitors.
Iranians accord visible respect to older individuals, reflected in seating priority on public transport and assistance from younger people without request. This cultural framework extends to foreign seniors but does not modify infrastructure challenges. Uneven pavement, long walking distances at archaeological sites, and limited seating at outdoor locations affect comfort and safety. Persepolis covers approximately 125,000 square meters with minimal shade and no vehicle access beyond the entrance parking.
High-altitude destinations including Mount Damavand, Alamut Valley, and portions of the Alborz Mountains involve exertion and altitude adjustment. Tehran sits at 1,200-1,800 meters elevation depending on district, Isfahan at 1,590 meters, Shiraz at 1,490 meters. Acclimatization takes 24-48 hours. Travelers with cardiovascular conditions should consult physicians regarding altitude impact.
Summer temperatures in southern Iran exceed 40 degrees Celsius regularly. Bandar Abbas, Ahvaz, and areas near the Persian Gulf experience humidity combined with heat from June through September. Heat exhaustion risk increases for seniors, particularly during midday site visits. Air conditioning penetration in hotels varies. Budget accommodations and traditional guesthouses rely on ceiling fans. Water quality concerns necessitate bottled water consumption, widely available in cities but requiring planning for rural day trips.
Pharmacies stock common medications but brand availability differs from Western markets.