Beirut-Rafic Hariri International Airport stands 9 kilometers south of central Beirut on reclaimed coastal land extending into the Mediterranean. The airport opened in 1954 and has undergone multiple expansions. The current terminal was completed in 1998 following civil war reconstruction. Israeli airstrikes severely damaged runways and the radar station in July 2006, closing the facility for two months. The August 4, 2020 port explosion in northern Beirut shattered windows across the terminal building despite the distance. The airport serves as Lebanon's only commercial international gateway. Middle East Airlines operates as the flag carrier, maintaining a fleet primarily of Airbus A320 family aircraft and A330 widebodies.
Immigration procedures require a passport valid for at least six months beyond the date of entry. Citizens of most Western nations receive a one-month tourist visa on arrival without charge. Citizens of countries with which Lebanon has no diplomatic relations are denied entry. This includes passport holders showing Israeli entry stamps or border crossing evidence. Lebanese authorities issue a separate entry card rather than stamping passports. Officers sometimes ask questions about final destination within Lebanon and accommodation plans. Processing time varies significantly depending on flight volume. Flights arriving from Gulf states typically carry high volumes requiring 30 to 90 minutes from landing to exit.
Customs regulations permit one liter of spirits and 200 cigarettes duty-free. Lebanese customs officers frequently inspect luggage for commercial quantities of goods intended for resale. Duty rates on electronics can reach 50 percent of declared value. Currency declaration is required only for amounts exceeding 15,000 USD equivalent. The airport has no departure tax since it was abolished in 2010 and incorporated into ticket pricing. Security screening includes both x-ray and physical inspection of checked bags. Travelers departing Lebanon face sometimes intensive questioning about contacts made during the visit and places visited.
The arrivals hall contains licensed exchange offices operating 24 hours. Rates offered are typically 2 to 4 percent below official rates published by the Banque du Liban. Multiple currency crises since October 2019 have created a complex exchange system. Official exchange was fixed at 1,507.5 Lebanese pounds per USD for decades. A parallel market emerged trading at rates exceeding 90,000 pounds per USD by mid-2023. Airport exchanges generally offer rates closer to parallel market than official. Some businesses now price exclusively in USD. ATMs in the arrivals area often limit withdrawals or stand empty during currency shortages. Carrying USD cash provides most flexibility for initial days.
Two competing taxi systems operate from the terminal. Official airport taxis are white vehicles with airport markings charging fixed zone-based fares set by the airport authority. The fare to central Beirut districts such as Hamra or Achrafieh was 25 USD in early 2023. The fare to Jounieh north of Beirut reaches 40 USD. Drivers accept USD or Lebanese pounds at prevailing parallel rate. Service taxis are shared vehicles following fixed routes, common throughout Lebanon but less accessible at the airport for arriving passengers with luggage. Uber and Bolt operate in Beirut with pickup points outside the terminal. These applications price in Lebanese pounds but drivers often request USD. Ride-sharing fares to central Beirut ranged from 12 to 18 USD equivalent in 2023, below official taxi rates but subject to surge pricing.
No rail connection exists to the airport. Lebanon's railway system ceased passenger operations in 1976 during civil war and has never resumed service. Buses operated by various companies serve the airport but with confusing schedules and no consistent branding. The number 5 bus operated by Connexion travels between the airport and Dawra transport hub in northeastern Beirut. Service is irregular and buses do not run after dark. Few arriving international travelers use public buses due to limited luggage space and route complexity for newcomers.
The airport terminal contains two levels with arrivals on ground floor and departures on the first floor. Middle East Airlines operates multiple lounges in the departure area. A small shopping area after security screening sells Lebanese wine, arak, and regional food products including olive oil and preserved fruits. Prices exceed city retail by approximately 30 percent. The airport has no hotels within walking distance. The closest accommodation is in Ouzai neighborhood 2 kilometers north, an area with no tourist infrastructure. Nearly all arriving visitors head directly to Beirut or coastal cities.
The coastal highway north from the airport enters Beirut through southern suburbs known as Dahieh, an area of dense Shia population and Hezbollah political control. The route passes under multiple banners and posters featuring Hassan Nasrallah and other party figures. Traffic congestion can extend the 9-kilometer journey to over one hour during morning or evening peaks. The highway runs at sea level with the Mediterranean visible to the west and apartment blocks rising to the east. No scenic merit exists on this stretch. The road surface deteriorates noticeably when leaving airport grounds, with potholes and patches common.
Entry into central Beirut reveals a city of stark contrasts. Modern glass towers stand adjacent to Ottoman-era buildings and civil war ruins still pocked with bullet impacts. Downtown Beirut was entirely reconstructed after 1990 by the private company Solidere founded by Rafic Hariri. The area features wide pedestrian streets, European-style cafes, and buildings reconstructed to match pre-war facades. Some reconstruction faced criticism for demolishing Ottoman structures. The downtown area includes Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque with four minarets rising 48 meters, completed in 2008. Directly adjacent stands Saint George Maronite Cathedral, illustrating the intermingling of religious communities that defines Lebanon.
Neighborhoods retain distinct sectarian characters established during the civil war when the Green Line divided east from west Beirut. East Beirut areas including Achrafieh and Gemmayzeh are predominantly Christian. West Beirut districts including Hamra and Ras Beirut are mixed with Sunni Muslim plurality. Tensions that caused the civil war division have not disappeared. Political affiliations in Lebanon follow primarily sectarian rather than ideological lines. The confessional system allocates government positions by religious sect with the presidency reserved for Maronite Christians, the prime ministership for Sunni Muslims, and the parliament speakership for Shia Muslims. This system established by the 1943 National Pact remains in effect.
Mobile phone service requires either purchasing a local SIM card or using roaming. Two providers operate: Touch and Alfa, both state-owned. SIM cards are officially available only with residence proof though some shops sell tourist packages. Prices for prepaid data plans start around 15 USD for 10 gigabytes valid 30 days. Network coverage is good in Beirut and coastal cities but weak in mountain areas. Internet speeds are among the slowest in the Middle East. The country ranked 174th globally for average broadband speed in a 2022 Cable.co.uk study showing average speeds of 3.26 megabits per second. Power shortages affect telecommunications infrastructure. Many areas receive state electricity only a few hours daily, relying on private generator subscriptions for consistent power.
Banking infrastructure has been severely impaired since the 2019 financial crisis. Lebanese banks froze withdrawals of foreign currency deposits in October 2019 to prevent capital flight. Depositors with USD accounts cannot access funds or face severe withdrawal limits. International credit cards function at some establishments but many businesses have removed card machines due to processing uncertainties. Cash remains essential. Large hotels and international chains accept cards more reliably. ATM withdrawal limits for foreign cards vary by bank. Some machines dispense only Lebanese pounds at unfavorable rates. Others provide USD but with daily limits of 200 to 400 dollars.
The first hours in Lebanon involve navigating multiple currency values. Restaurants might list prices in Lebanese pounds from years past that seem absurdly low. A mezze plate listed at 75,000 pounds reflects pricing from before collapse when this equaled 50 USD at official rate. Today the same amount equals less than 1 USD at parallel rate. Many businesses now handwrite prices or use stickers over old menus. Asking whether prices are in "fresh dollars" versus pounds versus old pounds becomes routine. Fresh dollars means actual USD bills. Some businesses quote in an intermediate rate called the "Sayrafa rate" published by the central bank's currency exchange platform established in 2021 as an attempted middle ground between official and parallel markets.